Saturday, 17 October 2015

I think I need help with my winter coat muslin

Hi there friends! I hope I can count on your help with this muslin!

It's been so long since I've used a commercial pattern that I feel like I'm out of practice in fitting.

On a side note, there were very light flurries here today. Winter is right around the corner!

Well, my first muslin is a bit of a hot mess.

  • Collar is gaping and sloppy-looking
  • wrinkling between the bust and the waist
  • front is swinging apart, very slightly.
  • boxy looking through waist (I want it to nip and flare out at the waist, like an A-line dress)
  • Those sleeves are pretty huge, especially below the elbow.

See what I mean about the waist? There's a lot of extra fabric, especially though the bust.

Here's the pinning that I did. I took a bunch of fabric out of the front length, and took a bunch of circumference out of the waist and bust.

Ugh, okay. lots of work to do on the back. Here I've taken it in at and above the waist and pinched out some extra fabric at the back of the neck. I had taken out some pleats and I'll be putting them back in. Because I need more width across the butt. 

Here is the side view, before and after pinning. This is tricky because I feel like the pinned version is less flattering from the side. Ugh, I can't tell. It also looks like it's swinging forward so I've either taken too much length out of the front or I might need to take out a little length from the back at the waist.

Please let me know if you have any ideas!!!

Monday, 12 October 2015

Countdown to Winter

Oh hello friends!

Wow, okay. So I took an unintentional 2-month break from sewing. I took my machine in to the Workroom and long story short, the people who work at the Workroom don't care about their customers.

...Anyway, I've finally got my machine back and it's crunch time for me to make a winter coat.

Remember how I was gushing about Sherlock's coat? Well, I'm going for it!

I'm using V8626, which I had in my stash. It's a little more princess-seam-y and a little less classic menswear-y than I had pictured but I think it will work out just fine with a few (million) tweaks.

The biggest change will be to make it double breasted with a notched collar. The pattern comes with a collared version but the collar is meant to stand up and even overlaps a little. I think it's ugly, so it's gotta go.

My favorite detail of this pattern - and the reason why I bought it in the first place - is the beautiful pleats in the back. I'll be extending the princess seams through the waist seam to the hem, so I can add a cute little belt detail. The belt detail is mission-critical.

Beyond that, I'll also extend the length of the coat, add cute little flap pockets (if it makes sense. I hope it works!) in the princess seams, add patch pockets (maybe), add cuffs (if I can find some info on how to do it).

Speaking of which, does anyone have a tutorial they can share on how to add cuffs to a coat like this?

I've made a preliminary muslin, I'll be posting picks soon because I have no idea how much ease I'll need in this thing. It's pretty baggy. I think my biggest concern is that I want it to be flattering.

Tuesday, 8 September 2015


Hello friends,

This skirt is a bit of a departure for me, since I don't usually wear things that cling to the hips and thighs but I just had to have this skirt!

If you can believe it, these photos were taken at an LA airport motel. It was the last day before we flew home and I really wanted to get pics of my skirt! They had beautiful gardens, for some reason.

Originally I planned to just make more more pants, but I was holding up the fabric to figure out the direction of the print and changed my mind. I'm so glad I did!

I used this pattern from Mad Mim. So easy!

I'm glad I've been hitting the gym in the last 7-8 months. I don't think I would have had the confidence to wear this!

I'm also really loving the body harness I'm wearing in these pics. I got it from H&M for about $5 and I've gotten so many compliments. It's got a kinda effortless-sexy vibe, don't you think?

Saturday, 5 September 2015

More fabric!

Oh hai fellow fabric lovers!

Ok, so right after I spent a small fortune on fabric in July, I saw this and could not pass it up!! (then I made a draft of a post about the fabric, which I then forgot all about. The post, not the fabric, I mean)

Another woven stretch sateen, another sheath dress!

The tile-like pattern reminds me of the blue mosque in Istanbul.

10/10 would visit again.

For this one I'm planning to use a Frankenpattern with a boat neck and little cap sleeves (totally Mindy-inspired) and my basic pegged skirt with back vent. I originally thought I'd have plain white on the shoulders (like a yoke) and hem, to keep the pattern from being too overwhelming and busy near my face. But I kept waffling about exactly how to do it and whether or not I thought it would actually look good or just look weird. Now I'm like eff that, I just want to get started.

Hey, look! I did a quick-and-dirty croquis. Guess I'm still procrastinating.

I feel like it's got a Dolce & Gabbana vibe that I'm really digging on.

I still have no idea when my sewing machine will be ready so I'm going to be using my viking even though the tension is all wonky, at least to make up the muslin. Hopefully I get my Bernina back soon!!!

Monday, 31 August 2015

Flowers on the dunes

Oh, hi! Have you been to Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area? It's pretty there! So I took some pictures of my new pants.

For these pants, I used this pattern (which I've gotten some good mileage out of!) with rayon jersey. So comfy! These were definitely made with a road trip in mind. 

Of course, a couple days after I took these pics, I was watching the Big Lebowski (I was in LA and needed some alone time with Netflix) and look at those pants!

Yep. I made a sartorial choice reminiscent of the dude. Not sure how I feel about that.

Man, those dunes sure where neat! The weather was pretty crazy, though. Like it was blue skies from horizon to horizon when we got there but within a few minutes it was all clouded over and cold!

So in other news, my sewing machine has been in the shop for like a month! And it will be $250 before it's back. The needle thingy was slightly misaligned and ...yeah. Really wishing I had bought a new machine instead of used.

Friday, 21 August 2015

New silk skirt in Portland

Oh, hello there! What have you been up to?

I've been on a road trip down the west coast of the US, from Seattle to LA. My boyfriend went on tour with a band and I joined for the last week. It was cool getting to see the amazing landscapes of the coast and mountains, but I got hardly any time to spend in the cities! It was pretty hard sitting in a car all day without the reward of getting to explore some of America's most iconic cities.

Anyway, I had done some sewing in advance of the vacation in the hopes that I could get some great pics! They didn't turn out exactly as I had hoped but that's life, no?

While in Portland, I wore this gorgeous new silk skirt that I made!

I wish I had gotten to see more of Portland! We basically hung around the neighbourhood where the show was, which was pretty rough. We did get dinner at some delicious food trucks, though. Yum!

This skirt though, amiright? I've wanted a striped skirt for ages so when I saw this fabric on I knew I had to have it. It was quite sheer so I underlined it with white bemberg  which also gave it a little extra body and movement. Because nothing says road trip like a very fancy skirt.

Wheeeeeeeeee! So float-y. I just wish I had been able to get photos in a nicer location!

Oh, also pockets! I used the same pattern as this skirt (tutorial here). Only this time, I had the inverted box pleats open up right at the waistband, whereas with previous versions I had stitched them down for a couple of inches from the top.

Found my light. And my cheekbones. Thanks Tyra! If only it was the golden hour all the time.

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Valentino linen dress

Hi friends!

Remember I bought this gorgeous Valentino fabric in Istanbul back in September?

I finally made something with it!

I was hoping to finally make a dress like this Carolyn Schnurer number that I've been in love with for years.

Alas, the Valentino fabric had a little too much orange in it already, so using orange to contrast would have clashed too badly. Instead I used the always accommodating navy blue.

God damn, this dress is hard to photograph argh!

I used the Heidi from Burdastyle, which I've made a few different versions of. This time I re-drafted the skirt from my skirt block, since the original pattern was not quite right and I didn't have the patience to fiddle with it when I have a perfectly fitted block. I just added the princess seams in the front and pockets. There's not even a vent so it was dead easy.

Whelp, moving right along.